Dry hopping

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Rau711

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I haven't brewed a beer in quite a while, and I know when I do it again it will most likely be an IPA/IIPA. I will dry hop with tons of hops. I have always read to dry hop after fermentation to get maximum hop aroma. While at Firestone today they had a brewing network video on with Matt Brynildson where he mentioned dry hopping during fermentation to allow the hops to eat the extra Occygen introduced during the hop addition. What is your technique on this matter?
 
I haven't brewed a beer in quite a while, and I know when I do it again it will most likely be an IPA/IIPA. I will dry hop with tons of hops. I have always read to dry hop after fermentation to get maximum hop aroma. While at Firestone today they had a brewing network video on with Matt Brynildson where he mentioned dry hopping during fermentation to allow the hops to eat the extra Occygen introduced during the hop addition. What is your technique on this matter?
Why not both?

In general, if you're going to bottle condition, the dry hop will be present but muted in homebrew. You're better off putting most of your effort into a long hop stand -- maybe a couple of rounds -- with interesting hops to wind up somewhere fun.
 
Why is this - are most commercial dry-hopped beers force-carbed?
Virtually all. The effect fades so quickly that the time to carb required will almost but not completely cancel it out.

Beers with brett are an exception, as brett eats oxygen, preserving hop aroma and flavor.
 
This is a pretty strong exaggeration in my experience, I've bottle conditioned pale ales that have maintained powerful dry hop aroma for months.
I have too. But getting that explosion out of the glass people expect from a DIPA especially requires kegging.
 
I agree that kegging provides the absolute best option. The best technique I have come up with is to ferment in a corny keg using the gas post for blowoff. Once fermentation is complete, using a cutoff dip tube, I transfer the beer to a second sanitized and CO2-purged keg that has a sack with the dry hops.

For transfer, I make sure that the headspace of the fermentation keg is flushed and filled with CO2. For the second keg, I sanitize and then introduce the dry hop sack. From there, I flush the second keg with CO2 a few times. Then, give it a final fill. Use a 1'-2' piece of tubing with liquid disconnects on each side. Attach that to the liquid post of the second keg for a few seconds to let CO2 out of the second keg and purge that transfer line. Connect the transfer setup to the liquid posts on both kegs, making sure that the pressure in the fermentation keg is higher (should be around 4-5 psi). Finally, pull the release pin on the second keg, allowing the pressure differential (constant 4-5 psi pressure on the fermentation keg) to push the beer to the second keg.

Depending on where you cutoff the dip tube, you pick up some yeast or lose some beer. I am okay losing 2-3 pints of beer from the bottom of the fermentation keg when this means that I have a process that ensures an absolutely minimal amount of oxygen is introduced. I've found this to be utterly critical when brewing super hoppy beers.

Hope that's somewhat helpful!
 
Thoughts on duration? I tend to dry hop for 3 days, replace the hops and dry hop for another 3 days.

Easily done in a CO2 purged keg with flavorless floss tied between the keg handle and the hop sack.
 
Thoughts on duration? I tend to dry hop for 3 days, replace the hops and dry hop for another 3 days.

Easily done in a CO2 purged keg with flavorless floss tied between the keg handle and the hop sack.

I usually just do 6-7 days, and then often just leave the hops in the keg in the bag for the duration. I typically just put the whole leaf in a muslin bag with some stainless steel weights before I transfer to the keg.
 
Since I'm too lazy to dry hop in the keg and transfer between kegs I typically dry hop at the end of primary. My standard lately has been to add the hops loose for 3-4 days of room temperature dry hopping, and then I move the bucket into my keezer and cold crash for another 3-4 days before racking into the keg.
 
So . . . to resurrect an old thread. Have you guys ever done a side-by-side batch with the only difference being the timing of the beginning of your dry hop? Specifically, one that started the dry hop at high krausen and the other that started the dry hop after vigorous primary fermentation was finished?

BTW, I know that there is a Brulosophy exBEERiment regarding this, but I'm looking for additional anecdotal evidence.
 
Nope, never experimented with dry hopping during fermentation. I'm probably going to do it when I take a crack at a triple IPA some time this summer, which I know won't necessarily help me learn anything about it, but should hopefully help make for something tasty regardless.
 
I've messed with different dry hopping schedules with varying results. The batches had the same hopping schedule during the boil and whirlpool. The difference was as follows:
Batch 1: Dry-hopped with 3 ounces (bagged) during active fermentation, pulling the bag 5-6 days after. Cold crash and dry hopped again during kegging, 3 ounces bagged.
Batch 2: Dry-hopped with 3 ounces (bagged) after active fermentation, pulling the bag 5-6 days after. Cold crash and dry hopped again during kegging, 3 ounces (bagged).
Batch 3: Dry-hopped with 3 ounces (bagged) after active fermentation, pulling the bag 5-6 days after. 4-5 days prior to kegging, dry hop with 3 ounces (bagged). Cold crash, keg sans hop bag.

I ferment IPA/DIPA's entirely in plastic fermenters, never transferring to a secondary carboy. The only time I open the fermenter is to quick add/remove the dry hop additions and eventually to keg. I know exposure to oxygen does not benefit the end product especially when hop aroma is concerned. Because I'm not using commercial equipment/techniques exposure is somewhat inevitable, but I try to limit it as much as possible. With that said, the method I used in Batch 1 produces the best aroma. Batch 2 has a present aroma but not nearly the same level as batch 1. Batch 3 was not nearly the level of aroma as batch 2.

From my experience, I prefer dry-hopping during active fermentation and then again in the keg. The only downfall I've had with this method is that a grassy flavor is imparted in the keg after the bag sits in there for about a week... but the times I've opted to remove it has nearly completely killed the aroma. Now I just plan on going through a 5 gallon batch within a week otherwise except that I will be drinking IPA that isn't at it's full potential.

I apologize if this is too layman's. I don't have the definite answers as to why Batch 1 works best for me (maybe the least amount of oxygen exposure, I dunno), nevertheless I hope this is helpful towards the discussion.
 
From my experience, I prefer dry-hopping during active fermentation and then again in the keg. The only downfall I've had with this method is that a grassy flavor is imparted in the keg after the bag sits in there for about a week... but the times I've opted to remove it has nearly completely killed the aroma. Now I just plan on going through a 5 gallon batch within a week otherwise except that I will be drinking IPA that isn't at it's full potential.

I apologize if this is too layman's. I don't have the definite answers as to why Batch 1 works best for me (maybe the least amount of oxygen exposure, I dunno), nevertheless I hope this is helpful towards the discussion.

Do you get that grassiness in both Batches 1 and 2? If so, what do you see as the difference between the two techniques?
 
I've messed with different dry hopping schedules with varying results. The batches had the same hopping schedule during the boil and whirlpool. The difference was as follows:
Batch 1: Dry-hopped with 3 ounces (bagged) during active fermentation, pulling the bag 5-6 days after. Cold crash and dry hopped again during kegging, 3 ounces bagged.
Batch 2: Dry-hopped with 3 ounces (bagged) after active fermentation, pulling the bag 5-6 days after. Cold crash and dry hopped again during kegging, 3 ounces (bagged).
Batch 3: Dry-hopped with 3 ounces (bagged) after active fermentation, pulling the bag 5-6 days after. 4-5 days prior to kegging, dry hop with 3 ounces (bagged). Cold crash, keg sans hop bag.

I ferment IPA/DIPA's entirely in plastic fermenters, never transferring to a secondary carboy. The only time I open the fermenter is to quick add/remove the dry hop additions and eventually to keg. I know exposure to oxygen does not benefit the end product especially when hop aroma is concerned. Because I'm not using commercial equipment/techniques exposure is somewhat inevitable, but I try to limit it as much as possible. With that said, the method I used in Batch 1 produces the best aroma. Batch 2 has a present aroma but not nearly the same level as batch 1. Batch 3 was not nearly the level of aroma as batch 2.

From my experience, I prefer dry-hopping during active fermentation and then again in the keg. The only downfall I've had with this method is that a grassy flavor is imparted in the keg after the bag sits in there for about a week... but the times I've opted to remove it has nearly completely killed the aroma. Now I just plan on going through a 5 gallon batch within a week otherwise except that I will be drinking IPA that isn't at it's full potential.

I apologize if this is too layman's. I don't have the definite answers as to why Batch 1 works best for me (maybe the least amount of oxygen exposure, I dunno), nevertheless I hope this is helpful towards the discussion.
Have you tried dry hopping in a keg and then transferring to a serving keg via co2?
 
Do you get that grassiness in both Batches 1 and 2? If so, what do you see as the difference between the two techniques?

I get the grassiness from both batch 1 & 2 from leaving the dry hop bag in the keg for over a week. With NEIPA the big difference I've noticed between batches 1 & 2 is batch 1 is hazier especially when using low flocc yeast. Batch 1 also seems to produce a stronger flavor and aroma than batch 2.
 
Have you tried dry hopping in a keg and then transferring to a serving keg via co2?

I have not tried it, but I have thought about it. How does it work? Keg as I normally would with dry hop bag, after dry hop period connect serving post to the serving post of an empty/purged/santized keg. Set regulator to a low psi, slowly pull pressure relief valve of empty keg?
 
I have not tried it, but I have thought about it. How does it work? Keg as I normally would with dry hop bag, after dry hop period connect serving post to the serving post of an empty/purged/santized keg. Set regulator to a low psi, slowly pull pressure relief valve of empty keg?
Exactly. Then you eliminate any type of oxygen exposure and loss of aromatics.
 
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