Dublin - What's the craic?

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I studied abroad in Dublin back in 2003. At the time I was just happy to drink as much Guinness as I could...obviously my tastes and I'm guessing the craft beer scene there have changed a lot since then. I know this is zero help to OP but I'm going to be back in Dublin for a day in September so I'd be also be interested in hearing what any recent visitors have to say.
 
Last time I went to Dublin was mid nineties. We used to catch the overnight ferry from Holyhead, and arrive in Dublin about 5am. Straight to the Meat (?) market for breakfast and beer, then ask for a pub that would be open. Spend the day drinking in some dodgy back street pub only emerging into the sunlight to try and find some food. Go watch a football match and then stumble back onto the night ferry home.

My times in Dublin have always been drunk from arrival until departure. Had a great time each and every time we went. ****ed if I can remember anything worthwhile to help you out.
 
Alright lads simmer down. There's quite a grip of craft beer and new beer to the market it seems. I gotta watch it because I think I'm getting fat, but I've already casually been to a bar called the Black Sheep (owned by the local Gallaway Brewery that had around 30 taps of local and import (founders, sierra nevada, a few others) craft beer and really good food. Finding that most bars have a pretty well rounded lineup if you aren't in the tourist hell-holes. Also, the new Guiness west-indies porter is good craic if you run into it at the store.

Had some good rye ale on tap that I can't remember the name of either :(

I need whiskey advice though. Anything specific to here worth bringing back to the states?
 
Places I drank in Dublin -

Obviously, I had a Guiness at the factory. It was tasty.
Alfie Byrne's
Against the Grain
Beer Market

I had a list that the bartender at Beer Market gave me, but it's probably stuck in a pocket of a suitcase somewhere. A lot of the places are owned by Gallway, but they do have different vibes and different selections. I found something really tasty and unique at each one. Beer Market was chill, Against the Grain was bustling and packed on a weekday evening, Alfie Byrne's was more organized and in a nice hotel. Two of the three had pretty good food as well. Alfie's is the more restaurant-like. Beer Market only had a selection of pastys, which the other people eating them did say were good.
 
Places I drank in Dublin -

Obviously, I had a Guiness at the factory. It was tasty.
Alfie Byrne's
Against the Grain
Beer Market

I had a list that the bartender at Beer Market gave me, but it's probably stuck in a pocket of a suitcase somewhere. A lot of the places are owned by Gallway, but they do have different vibes and different selections. I found something really tasty and unique at each one. Beer Market was chill, Against the Grain was bustling and packed on a weekday evening, Alfie Byrne's was more organized and in a nice hotel. Two of the three had pretty good food as well. Alfie's is the more restaurant-like. Beer Market only had a selection of pastys, which the other people eating them did say were good.
The bangers & mash at Against the grain is great. In terms of brewery's Gallway and Kinnegar are probably the top craft brewers in Ireland as I see it. But you can also get your hands on Beavertown and Siren from London, which are really good!
 
Galway Bay's Of Foam and Fury changed my life.

I also really enjoyed everything I tried by Brown Paper Bag Project (from bottle shops).
 
My wife and I are going to Ireland next month (6/11 - 6/20). We will mostly be driving the west coast, but have stops planned in a few of the bigger cities - the largest being Dublin and Galway.

Anything we should be on the lookout for? Galway looks to have some options with the numerous Galway bay brewery pubs that are around.

Thanks!
 
My wife and I are going to Ireland next month (6/11 - 6/20). We will mostly be driving the west coast, but have stops planned in a few of the bigger cities - the largest being Dublin and Galway.

Anything we should be on the lookout for? Galway looks to have some options with the numerous Galway bay brewery pubs that are around.

Thanks!
Galway Bay also run 3 or 4 of the best beer bars in dublin. I'd suggest the Black Sheep and Against the Grain.
 
Additionally, I'd look out for beers by Kinnegar. Porterhouse has a decent location with all their own brews that are all fairly good. I think the beers you can get on draft from some of London's craft breweries were good, for example: http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/30471/89343/
Unfortunately, no Kernel sees distro in Ireland. Have fun! The people are among the best in terms of friendliness.
 
My wife and I are going to Ireland next month (6/11 - 6/20). We will mostly be driving the west coast, but have stops planned in a few of the bigger cities - the largest being Dublin and Galway.

Anything we should be on the lookout for? Galway looks to have some options with the numerous Galway bay brewery pubs that are around.

Thanks!
Nice! I'm heading to Ireland with the wife in a few days (6/2 - 6/11).
 
Nice! I'm heading to Ireland with the wife in a few days (6/2 - 6/11).

Awesome!!! Safe travels!

I wish I had insight for you; lots of spots in Galway to imbibe, it seems.

Have a blast and let me know if you have any recommendations when you return.
 
Finishing up in Dublin.
Temple Bar area was nice and lively. Favorite night scene by far. Cool old bars like Brazenhead and The Temple Bar. Best beer was at The Beer Market which is apparently run by Galway brewing. But now that I think about it, Brazenhead and Beer Market may technically be outside Temple Bar area. Another cool spot was the Dame Tavern where the crowd spilled out into the street.
Favorite daytime area was Trinity College. Buildings are old as **** and very cool to be around. Old buildings make me happy.

Off to Kilkenny tomorrow.
 
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Kilkenny is awesome. So much old stuff. Wine Cellar had some decent beer for Ireland.
RRFfpdm.jpg
 
Last day in Ireland. After Kilkenny we went to Dingle and then Galway.

In Dingle we biked out around Slea Head. Spectacular views. Made for a long ass bike ride of I think close to 40km. Last few hills had us walking and cursing. Views were so nice that we drove back out later that day.

We hit the Cliffs of Moher on the way to Galway and they took a day trip out to the Aran Islands from Galway. Both were awesome stops.

We never really sought out any craft beer bars. We focused more on the traditional pubs and drank mostly Guinness, Smithwick's, and Heineken (wife). I did get to try the Galway Bay lineup and found them better than most here. Also in Dingle there's a local beer called Gnaes (sex in Gaelic) that was decent as well. In each town, I found a local beer or two to drink back in the hotels. Nothing special, but it'd be a shame not to try them.

The thing I will remember most about this trip was driving these roads. We rented a car and holy **** these roads are narrow after you leave the main motorways. First day of getting used to sitting right and driving left on these one American lane roads was intense. But after a few days I'm able to spot the scared tourists on these roads. Funny thing is that some of these roads have a posted speed limit of 100km/Hr and there's no ****ing way anyone but the craziest locals could hit that speed. Wife: "Slow down!" Me: "I'm doing 20 under the speed limit!"
 
Last day in Ireland. After Kilkenny we went to Dingle and then Galway.

In Dingle we biked out around Slea Head. Spectacular views. Made for a long ass bike ride of I think close to 40km. Last few hills had us walking and cursing. Views were so nice that we drove back out later that day.

We hit the Cliffs of Moher on the way to Galway and they took a day trip out to the Aran Islands from Galway. Both were awesome stops.

We never really sought out any craft beer bars. We focused more on the traditional pubs and drank mostly Guinness, Smithwick's, and Heineken (wife). I did get to try the Galway Bay lineup and found them better than most here. Also in Dingle there's a local beer called Gnaes (sex in Gaelic) that was decent as well. In each town, I found a local beer or two to drink back in the hotels. Nothing special, but it'd be a shame not to try them.

The thing I will remember most about this trip was driving these roads. We rented a car and holy **** these roads are narrow after you leave the main motorways. First day of getting used to sitting right and driving left on these one American lane roads was intense. But after a few days I'm able to spot the scared tourists on these roads. Funny thing is that some of these roads have a posted speed limit of 100km/Hr and there's no ****ing way anyone but the craziest locals could hit that speed. Wife: "Slow down!" Me: "I'm doing 20 under the speed limit!"

Great report!

Could you let me know what ferry company you used to get to Aran islands? That's on our list for one of the days in Galway but I didn't know what the best option was to embark - e.g. From Doolin or from a spot north of Galway bay.
 
Great report!

Could you let me know what ferry company you used to get to Aran islands? That's on our list for one of the days in Galway but I didn't know what the best option was to embark - e.g. From Doolin or from a spot north of Galway bay.
There's only one from Galway....and it doesn't actually depart from Galway. It's a 50 minute drive from Galway if you have a car or your ticket also provides busing from Galway. If you drive, get there early....that ****er left like 20 minutes early to/from the island so I'm sure people who planned to cut it close got left behind.
It may be better to depart from Doolin but I can't say for certain. Or better yet, for €60 you can fly from Galway.
Wife and I are the type that hates taking guided bus tours, but on the island that's just about the only way. €10 is a steal for the tour. We took the one that was called "Luxury" something or other because the guy was pretty funny when we were asking about the tour. Otherwise you'd need to rent a bike and there's no way I could do that after seeing how close the tour shuttles come to the cyclists on those narrow roads. Id be scared shitless on a bike.
 
Last day in Ireland. After Kilkenny we went to Dingle and then Galway.

In Dingle we biked out around Slea Head. Spectacular views. Made for a long ass bike ride of I think close to 40km. Last few hills had us walking and cursing. Views were so nice that we drove back out later that day.

We hit the Cliffs of Moher on the way to Galway and they took a day trip out to the Aran Islands from Galway. Both were awesome stops.

We never really sought out any craft beer bars. We focused more on the traditional pubs and drank mostly Guinness, Smithwick's, and Heineken (wife). I did get to try the Galway Bay lineup and found them better than most here. Also in Dingle there's a local beer called Gnaes (sex in Gaelic) that was decent as well. In each town, I found a local beer or two to drink back in the hotels. Nothing special, but it'd be a shame not to try them.

The thing I will remember most about this trip was driving these roads. We rented a car and holy **** these roads are narrow after you leave the main motorways. First day of getting used to sitting right and driving left on these one American lane roads was intense. But after a few days I'm able to spot the scared tourists on these roads. Funny thing is that some of these roads have a posted speed limit of 100km/Hr and there's no ****ing way anyone but the craziest locals could hit that speed. Wife: "Slow down!" Me: "I'm doing 20 under the speed limit!"

Back when I used to go visit relatives out there I can assure you many locals drive at those speeds, often drunk. It used to be common practice at night to turn off headlights and speed up when approaching intersections, at least it was with my crazy family.
 
Ireland ****ing blew me away. The people, the sights, and the hospitality are all top notch.

A few scattered thoughts:
  • We flew into and out of Shannon, which gave us immediate and easy access to the west coast and pre clearance of customs on the way home. Highly recommend.
  • We did make it to Dublin for a day. Honestly it was my least favorite thing we did, but it was still a really cool city. Lots of burdgeoning craft there.
  • The west coast cannot be missed. We started and Dingle and made our way to Killarney via the ring of Kerry and late lunch in Kenmare. We spent the afternoon in Killarney national park, unreal. We travelled from Killarney to Dublin and then back to Galway. Hit clonmacnoise enroute from Dublin to Galway. Awesome side trip. First day in Galway we did the burren and cliffs of moher.
  • Galway is an awesome town, even though it's touristy. We hit up salt house both nights, it's a Galway bay brewery bar. Chatted with the locals, had an awesome teelings aged wee heavy and split a cantillon classic with the Mrs.
  • The Aran islands are freaking incredible. I wish I had booked a night there, instead of just the 10-4 ferry. We biked, but I could see apprehension. The views from dun aengus were stunning.
  • We made it to donegal for a stay at Lough eske castle. Driving up through county mayo and Sligo was awesome. Slieve league in donegal was worth the drive, alone (see my pic below)
  • Guinness really does taste different there. I really don't think it's a myth. The sheer amount of Irish whiskey is stunning. Since I was the driver I only tried a few, but will be sampling more ASAP.
  • Driving was easy as mentioned, but those tour buses get ****ing old. The tours in general annoy me, but that's a preference.
  • B and Bs are totally different in Ireland. We did them for the majority of our stay as our package came with vouchers. I loved the ability to talk with locals amd start the day with a breakfast I couldn't imagine eating everyday
  • Holy **** do a lot of people smoke. I was amazed at the volume, and I'm from Pittsburgh where a lot of people seem to smoke.
  • I couldn't find many healthy food options, but our style of travel may have hindered that (doner kebab 4eva)
Slieve league in county donegal. Awesome hike.
2674AC41-4EF3-4596-8D0F-F825B017806D.jpg
 
Ireland ****ing blew me away. The people, the sights, and the hospitality are all top notch.

A few scattered thoughts:
  • We flew into and out of Shannon, which gave us immediate and easy access to the west coast and pre clearance of customs on the way home. Highly recommend.
  • We did make it to Dublin for a day. Honestly it was my least favorite thing we did, but it was still a really cool city. Lots of burdgeoning craft there.
  • The west coast cannot be missed. We started and Dingle and made our way to Killarney via the ring of Kerry and late lunch in Kenmare. We spent the afternoon in Killarney national park, unreal. We travelled from Killarney to Dublin and then back to Galway. Hit clonmacnoise enroute from Dublin to Galway. Awesome side trip. First day in Galway we did the burren and cliffs of moher.
  • Galway is an awesome town, even though it's touristy. We hit up salt house both nights, it's a Galway bay brewery bar. Chatted with the locals, had an awesome teelings aged wee heavy and split a cantillon classic with the Mrs.
  • The Aran islands are freaking incredible. I wish I had booked a night there, instead of just the 10-4 ferry. We biked, but I could see apprehension. The views from dun aengus were stunning.
  • We made it to donegal for a stay at Lough eske castle. Driving up through county mayo and Sligo was awesome. Slieve league in donegal was worth the drive, alone (see my pic below)
  • Guinness really does taste different there. I really don't think it's a myth. The sheer amount of Irish whiskey is stunning. Since I was the driver I only tried a few, but will be sampling more ASAP.
  • Driving was easy as mentioned, but those tour buses get ****ing old. The tours in general annoy me, but that's a preference.
  • B and Bs are totally different in Ireland. We did them for the majority of our stay as our package came with vouchers. I loved the ability to talk with locals amd start the day with a breakfast I couldn't imagine eating everyday
  • Holy **** do a lot of people smoke. I was amazed at the volume, and I'm from Pittsburgh where a lot of people seem to smoke.
  • I couldn't find many healthy food options, but our style of travel may have hindered that (doner kebab 4eva)
Slieve league in county donegal. Awesome hike.
2674AC41-4EF3-4596-8D0F-F825B017806D.jpg
Didn't know you & Rachel made this trip, sounds like you have an awesome time! Next time I see you we gotta chat Ireland - I spent a semester there & have been back a few times. My wife & I honeymooned in Dublin. Love it.
 
Didn't know you & Rachel made this trip, sounds like you have an awesome time! Next time I see you we gotta chat Ireland - I spent a semester there & have been back a few times. My wife & I honeymooned in Dublin. Love it.

Let's do that soon, Nate. Loved Ireland and think about our trip there often.
 

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