Discussion in 'Brewing & Beer Knowledge' started by stakem, Aug 23, 2013.
yup. right here: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/pimp-my-system/build-hopback/
Couldnt find a kegging thread, so gonna try in here. So I'm only about 4-5 kegs deep into the kegging game, and recently have had entire 5 gallon corny kegs leak out overnight. Has anyone else had this issue? It's really demoralizing having an entire batch leak out into your garage
I'm using the threaded ball lock disconnects and proper size tubing and they seem to be airtight, but after carbing and dropping the gas down to a serving psi, it appears the pressure built up is forcing beer out of the liquid connect and even sometimes through the gas connect/line (this specifically has happened during carbing before the liquid connect is attached). Is this just a case of needing to pull the o ring more frequently? Are my connects fucked up/not assembled properly after cleaning? Is there a certain psi i need to stay under? Any help would be appreciated!
Do you have new gas and liquid connects? New seals in the keg? What psi are you at?
Connects are fairly new, like 4-5 months. I take them apart to clean after each keg, but 99% sure theyre reassembled properly. The seals in the keg, no idea. Have 2 cornys and they both leaked so i dont think that's issue, unless both are bad. How would i check that? Psi has probably been about 5 when the leaks occurred. Carb at about 20 for 3-4 days prior, and have noticed beer in the gas line before.
Beer in the gas line is never good. How high are you filling up the keg? You should always leave space between the gas tube and the beer level.
Beer in the gas line hasnt been egregious but has happened, like maybe an inch or two of the line filled on occasion. Usually if the keg is moved or jostled. Pulling the o ring will force it back in. I dont believe i've ever filled up to the gas line, but its certainly possible. I typically do a closed transfer so its tough to tell. Thanks
A new o-ring kit is only a couple bucks. Certainly wouldn't hurt to replace them. I wonder if you might have a bad poppet valve? For less than $10 you could replace everything.
Make sure to bleed your keg of CO2 before you turn down the PSI level for serving.
So it could be a problem with the o ring thats causing the over pressurization and forcing beer out? Based on where the beer spilled id say it was 99% from the liquid post rather than the gas. So i should be pulling the o ring between carbing and serving? I always thought it best not to, so the aroma is held in. Will try that and replace the poppet valves before next batch, thanks for the help everyone.
Honestly, I've never had any issues with my kegs or kegging other than the lid not seating right on the first go. I guess I'm just really lucky.
ExactlY where is leaking from?
The keg post, the liquid quick disconnect, or from the tubing to QD connection?
Take apart the QD and make sure it's all functioning ok.
Do you have threaded flares or barbs on your qd?
It makes zero sense it would leak after you turn the pressure down to serving. Is your liquid QD attached when you are carbing?
And yes, purge the keg before turning pressure back down. You won't lose that much aroma.
Had some unexpected water damage in my bathroom to take care of. Delayed the keezer build. She's coming along nicely.
Filled my "glycol" tank. About 40 gallons of water. I need to add some bleach to sanitize it. Chilling it down as of last night for Sundays brewday.
Seriously considering buying one of these. Grainfather-esque system without a chiller or pump for $300. Both of these could/can be added as needed. I will just use an immersion chiller. Any thoughts on this? I just think this will get me brewing more often. The heating time is a bit long to boil but I can always switch things around in the process to occupy the time and not sitting around waiting.
It's pretty new so there isn't much info about it. The reviews on Williams Brewing crack me up.
It doesn't seem like a bad deal, but comparing it to a grainfather is not apples to apples. At a very basic level, it's a BIAB with a PID. (I don't see where you can even program a specific mash temp)
Leftover pvc pipe, idophor stained old silicone lines...not pretry buy functional.
Inside the cold room:
The ins and outs of the chiller reservoir.
I would have liked this to look a little cleaner but in the end it's all about function. The top line did get off kilter but too late to do anything about it.
Now to finish some wiring for the sump pumps so I can brew tomorrow into that conical posted above. I need to wire to the temp controller's.
Then mill some grain!!!!
All hooked up, tested heat and cooling. Need to finish that box, put some lower trim in and a little painting.
Now for the last big project is to get my RO tank complete. Drilled a 1 1/8th hole in it last night and dropping off tomorrow to have a 1.5" TC fitting welded on. Then an old pickup tube from a morebeer 1st Gen conical will go in with a silicone tube weighted at low end to pickup water from bottom of tank. Getting closer
Nothing major but I got tired of my speidel leaking in the fermentation box so I bought some upgrades from Nor Cal brew solutions.
Did this a couple weeks ago.