Discussion in 'Brewing & Beer Knowledge' started by stakem, Aug 23, 2013.
Took a while, but finally wrapped up my new kegerator....
Nice build. What made you go with the Roto-Vs?
A friend had been using the faucets for a while and he spoke very highly of them. I wasn't thrilled with the cheap faucets on my last build and so I decided to give them a try.
If you don't have any spares, I recommend picking up some extra o-rings. They have a tendency to bust with regular frequency. http://www.micromatic.com/draft-beer/flow-control-easy-pour-faucet-stainless-steel-body-4933roto-v
On the parts tab, its the $0.27 rear washer. We have about 25 of these faucets at work so let me know if you have any questions or need a run down on how to clean them. Micromatic isn't that great with documentation.
Thanks for the tip
Replaced my glycol pumps with smaller aquarium pumps. They can handle some back pressure and I'll be deleting the quick disconnects as they have way too much back pressure.
Ive ordered an RO unit so I can now store 35 gallons of water at a time. No more lifting and schlepping water from the store. Water costs me $7 for 25 gallons and the RO unit was $130. So in just over 18 brew sessions I'll break even on it. Not a bad deal.
What RO system did you get? I want to get one eventually.
No frills. The harder part is deciding what kind of tank you're going to fill. I also bought the back flush assembly for it.
And filling this tank:
I think I posted this ealier and I had a TC fitting welded to it for an out flow. Mine will be entirely manual because a float valve wold be difficult to install and eat up storage space.
Here the fitting, and it has an internal pickup going down to the bottom. But this way it's higher off the floor so I don't have to bend down as far and it won't collect as much grime.
Still need to clean out the stainless shavings.
RO unit arrived. Its larger and heavier than I expected, and doesn't have 2+ gallons of water in it yet. I don't think under the sink is an option anymore, and I'll have to mount this to a stud. The ideal location unfortunately is directly under my 220v outlet. That's safe. Amirite?
In seriousness, you could attach a shield between the two.
I think that's my plan. The 220v is already guarded by an enclosed shield due to proximity to the sink. But since the RO will be pressurized I think a splash guard is in order.
Missing some parts, will get done on Sat.
Had to get 2 washers to adapt the float switch to the lid.
And need to buy the right sized plugs to remove the right 2 pieces. I thought they were the same size and of course I thought wrong.
Your ambition is an inspiration and another reminder that I am lazy as fuck.
Necessity is the mother of invention. I have 2 herniated disks in my back so my goal with brewing is to lift as little as possible and brewing is not exactly light work. I also love to tinker and build stuff with the ultimate goal of just having to lift grain. I have a system for emptying the mash tun that doesn't involve back breaking lifting (10 gal system).
After 13 years of brewing I'm not giving up, but I do have to change how I brew. And it just means spending more and taking more time to build "cheats" into my process.
I need to get 2 3-way valves next so I can plumb my system completely so I am not constantly bending down to move hoses around. It's that bad that I am trying to eliminate as much bending and lifting as possible.
In fact, has anyone had postie or negative experiences using the 3 way valves from brewershardware? It's what I intend to buy.
Flow Control Rotos are really nice. I really want to try the flow control Euro facets that reset to all the way off after every pull. So you pull the handle all the way forward and use the flow control to pour.
Everything works! Takes about 10 hours to fill the tank at my house water pressure. Double breda and I'm not in pain. Im sore, but no lower back pain. There are some other upgrades I have on my list to do now to further reduce lifting or bending. Pretty happy overall.
Something I learned. This system doesn't filter out chloramines. I figured RO was RO since I used to get RO water from the Glacier machines. But those have a UV filter which disassociates the chemical. So I added a 5th housing and another filter post RO unit to strip out chloramines. I had an off flavor in a beer I first associated with chloramines (which is used in treating my water) only to discover and confirm a slime booger on a QD spring I only use to fill kegs from conical was the culpret.
Anyway, arrives today so I can plumb it in and get back to making my own brewing water.